Textiles

Textile dictionary A-F

Textile Dictionary

ABNORMAL CRIMP: A relative term for crimp that is either too low or too high in frequency and/or amplitude or that has been put into the fiber with improper angular characteristics.

ABRADED YARN: A filament yarn in which filaments have been cut or broken to create hairiness (fibrillation) to simulate the surface character of spun yarns. Abraded yarns are usually plied or twisted with other yarns before use.

ABRASION MARK: An area where a fabric has been damaged by friction.

ABRASION RESISTANCE: The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.

ABSORBANCE: The ability of a substance to transform radiant energy into a different form, usually with a resulting rise in temperature. Mathematically, absorbance is the negative logarithm to the base 10 of transmittance.

ABSORBENCY: The ability of one material to take up another material.

ABSORPTION: The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fiber, yarn, or fabric. (Also see ADSORPTION.)

ACCELERANT: A chemical used to speed up chemical or other processes. For example, accelerants are used in dyeing triacetate and polyester fabrics.

ACETATE FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is cellulose acetate (FTC definition). Acetate is manufactured by treating purified cellulose refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. The resultant product, cellulose acetate flake, is precipitated, purified, dried, and dissolved in acetone to prepare the spinning solution. After filtration, the highly viscous solution is extruded through spinnerets into a column of warm air in which the acetone is evaporated, leaving solid continuous filaments of cellulose acetate. The evaporated acetone is recovered using a solvent recovery system to prepare additional spinning solution. The cellulose acetate fibers are intermingled and wound onto a bobbin o shippable metier cheese package, ready for use without further chemical processing. In the manufacture of staple fiber, the filaments from numerous spinnerets are combined into tow form, crimped, cut to the required length, and packaged in bales.

ACETIC ACID: An organic acid (CH3COOH) widely used in textile applications. It is used in textile wet processing, dyeing and printing, and in the manufacture of cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate.

ACETIC ANHYDRIDE: Anhydrous acetic acid [(CH3CO)2O]. It is used in the acetylation process in the manufacture of cellulose acetate.

ACETONE: Dimethyl ketone (CH3COCH3). One of the most powerful organic solvents. Acetone dissolves secondary cellulose acetate and other derivatives of cellulose. It is miscible with water and has a low boiling point (55-56°C).

ACETONE RECOVERY: A process for reclaiming the acetone solvent from acetate fiber or plastics manufacture. Usually the recovery process consists of adsorption by activated carbon and re-distillation.

ACETYL: The radical (CH3CO-) of acetic acid.

ACETYLATION: A chemical reaction whereby the acetyl radical is introduced into a

compound, as in the conversion of cellulose to cellulose acetate.

ACETYL VALUE: A measure of the degree of esterification or combination of acetyl radicals with cellulose in acetate or triacetate products.

ACID-DYEABLE VARIANTS: Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to acid dyes.

ACID DYES: See DYES.

ACID FADING: See GAS FADING.

ACIDIC: A term describing a material having a pH of less than 7.0 in water.

ACID RECOVERY: A reclamation process in chemical processing in which acid is extracted from a raw material, by-product, or waste product. In the manufacture of cellulose acetate, acetic acid is a major by-product. Acid recovery consists of combining all wash water containing appreciable acetic acid and concentrating it to obtain glacial acetic acid.

ACID RESISTANCE: The property of withstanding contact or treatment with any acid normally encountered in use. The type of acid should be stated (i.e., organic or inorganic).

ACRYLIC FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units [-CH2-CH(CN)-] (FTC definition). Acrylic fibers are produced by two basic methods of spinning (extrusion), dry and wet. In the dry spinning method, material to be spun is dissolved is a solvent. After extrusion through the spinneret, the solvent is evaporated, producing continuous filaments which later may be cut into staple, if desired. In wet spinning, the spinning solution is extruded into a liquid coagulating bath to form filaments, which are drawn, dried, and processed. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC

ACRYLIC RESIN: A polymer of acrylonitrile, used in the production of manufactured fibers, as a fabric finish and as a size.

ACRYLONITRILE: A colorless, volatile, flammable liquid (CH2=CHCN) used as a raw material in the manufacture of acrylic polymers and fibers.

ACTINIC DEGRADATION: See ULTRAVIOLET DEGRADATION.

ACTINIC RESISTANCE: See ULTRAVIOLET RESISTANCE.

ACTION STRETCH: A term applied to fabrics and garments that give and recover in both the lengthwise and the widthwise directions. Action stretch is ideal for tight-fitting garments such as ski pants.

ACTIVATED CARBON: Charcoal, mostly of vegetable origin, of high adsorptive capacity. It is used for decolorizing liquids and other adsorption purifications. Usually made by carbonization and chemical activation.

ADDITION POLYMERIZATION: A reaction yielding a polymer in which the molecular formula of the repeating unit is identical with that of the monomer. The molecular weight of a polymer so formed is a simple sum of the molecular weight of the combined monomer units. Combination occurs by means of rearrangement of the chemical bonds.

ADDITIVE: A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties. For example, pigments are used as dope additives to give color in mass dyeing. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC

ADHESION: The force that holds different materials together at their interface and resists

separation into two layers.

ADHESION PROMOTERS: Products used to treat the smooth fiber-face of closely constructed base fabric to provide a chemical bonding site for subsequent coating. This step is done because it is difficult to get good coating adhesion via strikethrough and mechanical bonding in closely constructed fabrics. Products containing the isocyanate group are the most widely used promoters. (Also see DIP TREATING.)

ADHESIVE ACTIVATED YARNS: Yarns treated by the fiber manufacturer to promote better

adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to allow easier processing.

ADHESIVE MIGRATION: In nonwovens, the movement of adhesive together with its carrier solvent in a fabric during drying, giving it a non-uniform distribution within the web, usually increasing to the outer layers.

ADHESIVES: In textiles, materials which cause fibers, yarns, or fabrics to stick together or to other materials.

ADIPIC ACID: 1,4-butanedicarboxylic acid [COOH(CH2)4COOH]. It is used in the polymerization reaction to form nylon 66 polymers and in the manufacture of polyurethane foams.

ADSORPTION: The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to surface areas of textile fibers, yarns,

fabrics, or any material. (Also see ABSORPTION.)

ADVANCED COMPOSITE: Polymer, resin, or other matrix-material system in which reinforcement is accomplished via high-strength, high-modulus materials in continuous filament form or is discontinuous form such as staple fibers, fibrets, and in-situ dispersions.(Also see COMPOSITE.)

AESTHETICS: In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, color, luster, drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.

AFFINITY: Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine, such as fiber and dyestuff.

AFTERGLOW: The flameless, glowing combustion of certain solid materials that occurs after the removal of an external source of ignition or after the cessation of combustion of the material.

AFTERTREATMENT: Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating dyed material in ways to improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded. Examples are embossing, creping, softening, printing, and dyeing.

AGEING:

1. Deterioration of textile or other materials caused by gradual oxidation during storage and/or exposure to light.

2. The oxidation stage of alkali-cellulose in the manufacture of viscose rayon from bleached wood pulp.

3. Originally, a process in which printed fabric was exposed to a hot, moist atmosphere. Presently, the term is applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist steam in the absence of air. Ageing is also used for the development of certain colors in dyeing, e.g., aniline black. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC AGER: A steam chamber used for ageing printed or padded material.

AGGLOMERATION: A cluster of particles or fibers.

AGITATE: To stir or to mix, as in the case of a dyebath or solution.

AIR BAG: An automatically inflating bag in front of riders in an automobile to protect them

from pitching forward in an accident. End use for manufactured textile fibers.

AIR BRUSHING: Blowing color on a fabric or paper with a mechanized pneumatic brush.

AIR CONDITIONING: 1. A chemical process for sealing short, fuzzy fibers into a yarn. Fabrics made from air-conditioned yarns are porous. Because they allow more air circulation, these fabrics are also cooler. 2. Control of temperature and/or humidity in work or living space.

AIR ENTANGLED YARNS: See COMPACTED YARNS.

AIR FORMING: A process in which air is used to separate and move fibers to fashion a web such as the Kroyer® process for short fibers, usually of wood pulp; or the Rando-Webber® process for staple-length fibers.

AIR JET SPINNING: A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process, the fibers are drafted to appropriate sliver size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. They are stabilized after each twisting operation.

AIR JET TEXTURING: See TEXTURING.

AIR-LAID NONWOVENS: Fabrics made by an air-forming process (q.v.). The fibers are distributed by air currents to give a random orientation within the web and a fabric with isotropic properties.

AIR PERMEABILITY: The porosity or the ease with which air passes through material. Air permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of parachute cloth, and the efficacy of various types of air filters. It also influences the warmth or coolness of a fabric. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC AIRPLANE FABRIC: A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.

AIR-SUPPORTED ROOF: A fabric-based roofing system that is supported and held in place by air pressure.

ALBATROSS: A soft, lightweight wool or wool blend fabric in a plain weave with a napped, fleecy surface that resembles in texture, the breast of the albatross. It is usually light-colored and is used in negligees, infants’ wear, etc.

ALGINATE FIBER: Fiber formed from a metallic salt (normally calcium) of alginic acid, which is a natural polymer occurring in seaweed. Alginate fiber is soluble in water.

ALKALINE: A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in water.

ALKYLATION: The introduction of an alkyl radical into an organic molecule.

ALLOY: A solid or liquid mixture of two or more metals; or of one or more metals with certain

nonmetallic elements formed by fusing the components.

ALPACA: 1. Long, fine hair from Alpaca sheep. 2. A fabric from alpaca fibers or blends, (originally a cotton cloth with alpaca filling) that is used for dresses, coats, suits, and sweaters. It is also used as a pile lining for jackets and coats. (The term has been incorrectly used to describe a rayon fabric.)

ALPACA STITCH: A 1 x 1 purl-links stitch that is knit so that the courses run vertically instead of horizontally as the fabric comes off the knitting machine. A garment made with an alpaca stitch is not always 100% alpaca; it can be made of other natural or manufactured fibers.

ALPHA CELLULOSE: One of three forms of cellulose. Alpha cellulose has the highest degree of polymerization and is the chief constituent of paper pulp and chemical dissolving-grade pulp. (Also see BETA CELLULOSE and GAMMA CELLULOSE.)

ALSIMAG®: Registered trademark of American Lava Corporation for ceramic materials. These materials are used in guides and discs on textile processing machines and fiber manufacturing equipment.

ALTERNATING TWIST: A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted in the yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.

AMBIENT CONDITIONS: See ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS.

AMINE END GROUP: The terminating (-NH2) group of a nylon polymer chain. Amine end groups provide dye sites for polyamides.

ANGORA:

1. The hair of the Angora goat. The long, fine fibers are so smooth and soft that they must be combined with other fibers in weaving.

2. The hair of the Angora rabbit. The fine, lightweight hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in weaving. By law, the fiber must be described as Angora rabbit hair.

ANHYDRIDE: A compound formed by abstraction of water, usually from an acid. Example: acetic anhydride, which is used in converting cellulose to cellulose acetate.

ANIDEX FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of one or more esters of a monohydric alcohol and acrylic acid, (CH2=CH-COOH) (FTC definition).

ANILINE DYES: See DYES.

ANIMAL FIBERS: Fibers of animal origin such as wool, alpaca, camel hair, and silk.

ANION: A negatively charged ion.

ANISOTROPIC: Not having the same physical properties in every direction. In the plane of a fabric, it is related to a non-random distribution of fibers.

ANTHRAQUINONE DYES: See DYES.

ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH: A treatment of a textile material to make it resistant to, or to retard growth of, bacteria.

ANTICHLOR: A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excess chlorine after bleaching.

ANTIFELTING AGENTS: Products that prevent or minimize matting and compaction of textile materials.

ANTIFOAMING AGENT: An additive that minimizes the formation of bubbles within or on the

surface of a liquid by reducing the forces that support the bubble’s structure.

ANTIOXIDANT: A substance to retard deterioration (of fiber, fabrics, finishes, etc.) resulting from reaction with oxygen.

ANTISOILING PROPERTIES: The properties of textile materials whereby they resist deposition of dirt and stains.

ANTISTAINING PROPERTIES: The ability of a textile to resist the deposition of oil- or water-borne stains.

ANTISTATIC AGENT: A reagent capable of preventing, reducing, or dissipating static electrical charges that may be produced on textile materials.

APPLIQUE: A design made separately and then sewn on a cloth or garment.

APRON MARK: See DECATING MARK.

ARACHNE MACHINE: A machine for producing loop-bonded nonwovens. The fabric is formed by knitting a series of warp yarns through a fiber web processed on a card. (Also see

BONDING, 2. Stitch Bonding.)

ARAMID FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH-CO-) attached directly to two aromatic rings (FTC definition). Aramid fibers exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus. Fabrics made from aramid fibers maintain their integrity at high temperatures, such fabrics are used extensively in hot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables, and tire cord.

ARGYLE: A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colors knit in a fabric.

ARTIFICIAL TURF: A manufactured carpet having the appearance of grass. Used to replace grass in sports arenas, yards, etc. (Also see RECREATIONAL SURFACES.)

ART LINEN: A plain-weave, softly finished fabric used either bleached or unbleached as a base fabric for needlework.

ASBESTOS: A nonmetallic mineral fiber, which is nonflammable. The fiber is woven into fabrics and used for theater curtains and industrial uses where flame-resistant materials are needed.

ASPECT RATIO: 1. The ratio of length to diameter of a fiber or yarn bundle. 2. In tire production, the ratio of the height of the tire to its width. 3. In a rectangular structure, the ratio of the longer dimension to the shorter.

ASPHALT OVERLAY FABRICS: See GEOTEXTILES.

ASTRAKHAN CLOTH: A thick knit or woven fabric with loops or curls on the face. The base yarns are usually cotton or wool and the loops are made with fibers such as mohair, wool, and certain manufactured fibers. The face simulated the pelt of the astrakhan lamb.

ATACTIC POLYMER: A type of polymer molecule in which substituent groups or atoms are arranged randomly above and below the backbone chain of atoms, when the latter are all in the same plane (e.g., in polypropylene). (Also see ISOTACTIC POLYMER, SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER, and TACTIC POLYMER.)

ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS: In general, the relative humidity, barometric pressure, and temperature existing at a given time.

ATTRITION MILLS: Machines for reducing materials into smaller particles by grinding down by friction. In the manufacture of acetate and triacetate fibers, equipment used in shredding pulp prior to acetylation.

AUTOCLAVE: 1. An apparatus for carrying out certain finishing operation, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere. 2. Apparatus for polymerizing condensation polymers such as nylon or polyester at any pressure above or below atmospheric.

AVERAGE STIFFNESS: The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points on a stress strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress. (Also see

MODULUS).

AVERAGE TOUGHNESS: See TOUGHNESS.

AXIAL YARN: A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias yarns.

AXMINSTER CARPET: A machine-woven carpet in which successive weft-wise rows of pile are inserted during weaving according to a predetermined arrangement of colors. There are four main types of Axminster looms: Spool, Gripper, Gripper-Spool, and Chenille.

AZLON FIBER: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance consists of any

regenerated naturally occurring proteins (FTC definition). Azlon is not currently produced in the United States.

AZO DYES: See DYES.

AZOIC DYES: See DYES, Naphthol Dyes.

Ballotini: Small glass beads which are normally used in reflective paints but which can also be incorporated into fabrics.

Bandana: Handkerchief designs in simple colour and white stylised patterns, including spots and paisley.

Basket weave: A textile weave consisting of double threads interlaced to produce a checkered pattern similar to that of a woven basket.

Bast fibre: Fibre obtained from the stems of certain types of plant.

Batik: A traditional dyeing process in which portions of cloth are coated with wax and therefore resist the dye, enabling distinctive patterns to be created. Batik fabrics are characterised by a streaky ormottled appearance.

Batt: Single or multiple sheets of fibre used in the production of nonwoven fabric.

Bedford cord: A fabric constructed in such a way as to show rounded cords in the warp direction with pronounced sunken lines between them.

Bias: The direction diagonally across a piece of fabric at 45º to the warp and weft. Bicomponent fabric: A fabric with two layers.

Bi-component fibres: Fibres spun from two different polymers. The most common types are made from polymers which have different melting points and are used for thermal bonding. Another variant is produced from polymers which have differing solubilities. In this case one polymer may later be dissolved out to leave ultra-fine filaments. An example is the production of suede-like fabrics. This process is also used to create crimping, in order to provide bulk or stretch.

Bicomponent yarn: A yarn having two different continuous filament components

Binder (nonwoven): An adhesive material used to hold fibres together in a nonwoven structure. Birdseye: A fabric woven to produce a pattern of very small, uniform spots.

Bi-shrinkage yarn: A yarn containing two different types of filament, which have different shrinkages.

Blooming: The tendency of a yarn to become fuller-looking when wetted and dried under certain conditions. In practice, the overall yarn diameter increases slightly-resulting in a "halo effect" or softer look-and the length diminishes. The effect usually results fro a nonwoven fabric in which the fibres are held together by a bonding material. This may be an adhesive or a bonding fibre with a low melting point. Alternatively, the material may be held together by stitching.

Braided yarn: Intertwined yarn containing two or more strands.

Breathability: The ability of a fabric, coating or laminate to transfer water vapour from one of its surfaces through the material to the other surface.

Brocade: Usually a jacquard woven fabric in which the figure is developed by floating the warp threads, the weft threads, or both, and interlacing them in a more or less irregular order

Brocatelle: A heavy figured cloth in which the pattern is created by warp threads in a satin weave.

Brushed fabrics: Fabrics which have undergone a brushing process to produce a napped surface. Brushed fabrics usually have a soft, slightly weathered, broken-in feel.

Bullet proof material: A material which provides complete protection against all types of high velocity projectiles or against multiple hits in the same location from such projectiles.

Bushing: A block made from platinum alloy containing several hundred holes through which molten glass is fed at very high temperatures from a furnace, resulting in the formation of glass filaments.

Batik: One of the oldest forms of dyeing fabrics, using wax. Portions of the fabric are coated in wax leaving the unwaxed areas to take the dye, then the wax is removed. This method of dyeing is imitated in machine printing.

Boucle: Knitted or woven fabrics made distinctively by its small regularly spaced loops of specially twisted yarns.

Brocade: Rich fabric wove on a loom with the jacquard attachment giving an embossed appearance that resembles embroidery in a pattern of raised figures or flowers. Many times it includes gold and\ silver threads. The name is derived from the French meaning to ornament.

Back Length: The dimension on a garment taken from the center collar attaching seam to the bottom of the garment, or in the case of a coverall, to the top of the waistband.

Back Waist Length: The dimension on a body, taken from the top of the back bone at the base of the neck to the waistline.

Bactericide: The material that Kills bacteria.

Bacteriostat: Doesn't necessarily mean that it kills bacteria. A stat means that it may simply be slowing growth or holding the death to growth rates of bacteria (same for fungal stats) more or less in equilibrium. Inhibits bacteria growth.

Ballistic: A thick woven fabric that is extremely abrasion resistant and tough; has a denier of about 2000, and is used in apparel, packs and gear.

Band (Continuous/Grown-on): Pant panels that extend to the top of the pant and are folded over without an outside band. A separate inside band lining is sewn through the pant and has an interlining.

Band (Pasted-on/Folder-set): A separate band sewn on the pant with stitching that shows on the outside at the top and bottom.

Band (Rocap): A separate band of body fabric sewn on and turned down so the attaching seam is not visible. Inside the band is a separate lining---made from pcketing fabric---and interlining.

Barré: An imperfection, characterized by a ridge or mark running in the crosswise or lengthwise direction of the fabric. Barrés can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns, problems during the finishing process.

Bartack:To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches that provides a more durable seam end. (Commonly used at points of strain.)

Base Layer: The apparel in contact with your skin. The purpose of the base layer is to keep you warm/cool and dry.

Basket Weave: A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.

Bast Fiber: Strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the inner bark in the stems of certain plants.

Batiste: A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends. End-uses include blouses and dresses.

Bedford Cord: A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction. Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often used for upholstery and work clothes.

Beeze: Piping or cording formed at lower and inside pocket welts.

Besom: An edging or reinforcement around a pocket opening.

Bleaching: A process of whitening fibers, yarns, or fabrics by removing the natural and artificial impurities to obtain clear whites for finished fabric, or in preparation for dyeing and finishing. The materials may be treated with chemicals or exposed to sun, air, and moisture.

Blend: A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.

Bonding: The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent into one package. The bonding of fibers in a single layer of material is called a web. Special adhesives, binders, or thin slices of foam may be used as the marrying agent.

Bonding: A process for adhesive laminating of two or more fabrics or fabric and a layer of plastic by means of a bonding agent (adhesives, plastics or cohesion).

Boucle: A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats Break Point on the front edge of the garment at which the roll of the lapel begins. Usually at the same point as the lower end of the bridle.

Breathability: The movement of water or water vapor from one side of the fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking, chemical, or electrostatic action. Also known as moisture transport.

Broad Spectrum Antimicrobial: An antimicrobial that effectively controls or kills at least 3 of the basic microorganism groups. This term is important to help give a specific encompassing term to technologies that offer protection from the gamut of microorganisms, without the sometimes vague nature of the term antimicrobial, which could mean kills just one type or kills many types.

Broadcloth: A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. The most common broadcloth is made from cotton or cotton/polyester blends.

Brocade: A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design. Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery, draperies, and eveningwear.

Brushing: A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used on a loosely constructed fabric to permit the fibers in the yarns to be raised to create a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture.

Bunting: Can be either a cotton or wool fabric, woven in a plain open weave, similar to cheesecloth, and dyed in the piece. Cotton bunting is often woven with plied yarns. Wool bunting is woven with worsted worsted yarns, using strong, wiry wool.

Burlap: A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric used as a carpet backing, and a inexpensive packaging for sacks of grain or rice. Also, as fashion dictates, burlap may also appea as a drapery fabric.

Burn-out: A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect. However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed.

Buttonhole (eyelet): Formed by a contoured patch of zig-zag stitching, followed by a cut---a portion of which is circular. Eyelet buttonholes are usually used on heavy fabrics and/or with large buttons. A gimp or cord is usually contained within the stitches to provide a reinforcement along the edge of the hole.

Buttonhole (straight): Formed by two pairs of straight, parallel rows of zigzag stitching, followed by a single, straight knife cut. Each end of the row of stitching is secured by a bartack.

Buttons:Specified by design, size, color, and type---such as brass, melamine, or pearl, buttons are either shanked (attached by passing threads through the shank's eye) or holed (attached by passing threads through the button's holes).

Bolt: An entire length of fabric, rolled full width on a tube

Border: A border is a gimp, but wider. This trim is sometimes woven in plain patterns, such as stripes or chevrons.

Boucle: A novelty yarn that is looped and crimped to produce a pebbly surfaceBrush Fringe A brush fringe is a cut fringe that has a flat skirt made of thin yarns. The heading can vary from plain to a most elaborate gimp.

Bullion: Fringe Bullion Fringe is made of plain or crepe cords, rather than yarns. The heading can be plain or decorative.

Back Length:The dimension on a garment taken from the center collar attaching seam to the bottom of the garment, or in the case of a coverall, to the top of the waistband.

Back Waist Length: The dimension on a body, taken from the top of the back bone at the base of the neck to the waistline.Bactericide- Kills bacteria.

Ballistic: A thick woven fabric that is extremely abrasion resistant and tough; has a denier of about 2000, and is used in apparel, packs and gear.BTextile Dictionary Band (Continuous/Grown-on)- Pant panels that extend to the top of the pant and are folded over without an outside band. A separate inside band lining is sewn through the pant and has an interlining.

Band (Pasted-on/Folder-set): A separate band sewn on the pant with stitching that shows on the outside at the top and bottom.

Band (Rocap): A separate band of body fabric sewn on and turned down so the attaching seam is not visible. Inside the band is a separate lining---made from pcketing fabric---and interlining.

Barré: An imperfection, characterized by a ridge or mark running in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barrés can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns, problems during the finishing process.

Bartack: To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches that provides a more durable seam end. (Commonly used at points of strain.)

Base Layer: The apparel in contact with your skin. The purpose of the base layer is to keep you warm/cool and dry.

Basket Weave: A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.Bast Fiber- Strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the inner bark in the stems of certain plants.

Batiste: A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends. End-uses include blouses and dresses.

Bicomponent Fiber: Manufactured fiber made of continuous filaments, and made of two related components, each wit different degrees of shrinkage. The result is a crimping of the filament, which makes the fiber stretchable.

Bonding: The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent.into one package. The bonding of fibers in a single layer of material is called a web. Special adhesives, binders, or thin slices of foam may be used as the marrying agent.

Bonding: A process for adhesive laminating of two or more fabrics or fabric and a layer of plastic by means of a bonding agent (adhesives, plastics or cohesion).

Boucle: A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats Break- Point on the front edge of the garment at which the roll of the lapel begins. Usually at the same point as the lower end of the bridle.

Collar (Banded): The visible or panel portion of the collar is cut separately and attached to the neckband portion. This is normal dress shirt construction.

Collar (convertible):The panel or visible portion of the collar and the neckband portion are cut as one piece, but folded once along the length to produce the appearance of a banded collar.

Collar (Lined): A collar made by placing a piece of interlining between the two pieces of body fabric.

Collar (one piece): A collar constructed from a single piece of fabric with the center fold forming the outer edge.

Collar (padding): Attaching the under-collar to canvas with several rows of blindstitching.

Collar (sandwich): A collar which has the top-collar inserted between the canvas and the under-collar.

Collar (topstitched): A collar with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Collar (two-piece): A collar formed by joining two identical pieces, inverting and sometimes topstitching along the folded edges.

Color Abrasion: Color changes in localized areas of a garment due to differential wear, such as the knees of blue jeans. Often evident in cross-dye shades of blends where durable press treatments are applied. Color abrasion is often called "frosting".

Colorfastness: A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.

Combing: The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity.

Commercial Standards: Recorded voluntary standards of the trade." The U.S. Bureau of Standards issues Commercial Standards which are not laws, but are important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by number, and spell out test procedures and minimum performance guidelines.

Composite Fabric: An engineered fabric made from two or more components. One component is often a strong fiber such as fiberglass, Kevlar®, or carbon fiber that gives the material its tensile strength, while another component (often called a matrix) is often a resin, such as polyester or epoxy that binds the fibers together.

Compression Fabric: A high tenacity stretch fabric which, when in a close fitting garment, provides muscles with a firm compression fit that lessons vibrations, reduces fatigue, and keeps muscles energized. The fabric is usually made in a knit construction, using a series of gradient fibers with an open knit inner surface to create a moisture transfer environment.

Compression Stretch: The name given to the expansive stretch that is created by the spandex fibers used in the development of a compression fabric.

Calendered: The term used to describe a fabric which has been passed through rollers to smooth and flatten it or confer surface glaze.

Canvas: A plain weave usually made from cotton or linen.

Capillary action: A process in which liquids move along interstices between fibres. These may be manufactured with a special cross-section to enhance the process.

Carbon Fibre: A man-made fibre containing at least 90% of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of appropriate fibres

Carbonisation: A chemical process for eliminating vegetable matter from animal fibres such as wool by degrading it to an easily friable (readily crumbled) condition. The process usually involves treatment with an acid followed by heating. Hydrochloric acid gas is used

Carded: Description of a continuous web or sliver produced by carding

Carding: The disentanglement, cleaning and intermixing of fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between moving pins, wires or teeth

Cavalry Twill: A firm warp-faced cloth, woven to produce a steep twill effect.

Cellophane Effect: An effect created in a fabric which gives it the iridescent appearance of cellophane.

Cellulosic Fibres: Fibres made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material

Chafer fabric: A fabric coated with vulcanised rubber which is wrapped around the bead section of a tyre before vulcanisation of the complete tyre. Its purpose is to maintain an abrasion-resistant layer of rubber in contact with the wheel on which the tyre is mounted.

Chainette: A tubular cord produced on a circular knitting machine.

Challis: A lightweight plain-weave fabric, made from cotton or wool, usually with a printed design.

Chambray: A cotton shirting fabric woven with a coloured warp and white weft. Cheesecloth: An open lightweight plain-weave fabric, usually made from carded cotton yarns.

Chenille: A yarn consisting of a cut pile which may be one or more of a variety of fibres helically positioned around axial threads that secure it. Gives a thick, soft tufty silk or worsted velvet cord or yarn typically used in embroidery and for trimmings.

Chiffon: A very light, transparent fabric in a plain weave.

Chintz: A glazed, printed, plain-weave fabric, usually made of cotton.

Circular Jersey: Fabric produced on circular knitting machines

Cloque: A compound or double fabric with a figured blister effect, produced by using yarns of different character or twist which respond in different ways to finishing treatments.

Colourway: One of several different combinations of colours in which a given pattern is printed on items such as fabrics and wallpapers.

Commingled Yarn: A yarn consisting of two or more individual yarns that have been combined, usually by means of air jets.

Condenser Card: A roller-and-clearer type of card, as distinct from a flat card, which converts fibrous raw materials to slubbings by means of a condenser Condenser spun yarn: Yarn spun from slubbing.

Conjugate Fibre: A bicomponent or biconstituent fibre produced by extruding two different polymers through the same orifice

Cord: A term used to describe the way in which textile strands have been twisted, such as in cabled or plied yarns.

Corduroy: A cut weft pile fabric in which the cut fibres form a surface of cords or ribs in the warp direction.

Core-Spun Yarn: A yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres. A corespun yarn combines the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres which form the surface.

Count: A measure of linear density

Cover Factor (Knitted Fabrics): A number that indicates the extent to which the area of a knitted fabric is covered by yarn. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitting

Cover Factor (Woven Fabrics): A number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count.

Crease-Resist Finish: A finish, usually applied to fabrics made from cotton or other cellulosic fibres or their blends, which improves the crease recovery and smooth-drying properties of a fabric. In the process used most commonly, the fabric is impregnated with a solution of a reagent which penetrates the fibres and, after drying and curing, cross-links the fibre structure under the influence of a catalyst and heat. The crease-resistant effect is durable to washing and to normal use.

Crepe: A fabric characterised by a crinkled or puckered surface. Crimp: The waviness of a fibre or filament

Crock: A measure of the resistance of a fabric to the loss of colour due to rubbing or abrasion. Cross- dyeing: The dyeing of a yarn or fabric containing a mixture of fibres, at least one of which is coloured separately.

Cupro: A type of cellulosic fibre obtained by the cuprammonium process

Curing (Chemical Finishing): A process carried out after the application of a finish to a textile fabric in which appropriate conditions are used to effect a chemical reaction. Usually, the fabric is heat treated for several minutes. However, it may be subject to higher temperatures for short times (flash curing) or to low temperatures for longer periods and at higher regain (moist curing).

Cut and Sew: A system of manufacturing in which shaped pieces are cut from a layer of fabric and stitched together to form garments. In the case of tubular knitted fabric, the cloth is either cut down one side and opened up into a flat fabric or left as a tube and cut to shape.

Chenille: From the French word for caterpillar, is actually a type of woven yarn which has a pile giving it a fluffy face. Used in various types of decorative fabrics and tassels, and used to describe a fabric woven from chenille yarns. The yarn can be of silk, wool, cotton or rayon.

Chintz: A glazed cotton fabric usually with a printed design and originally from India.

Corduroy: From the French word "cloth of kings," a strong and durable upholstery weight cut pile fabric usually made of cotton or rayon with narrow to wide ridges in the pile running vertically.

Crepe: A term used to describe a variety of lightweight fabric in various fibers and blends characterized by their puckered surface obtained by highly twisting either the yarn, or chemical treatments or weave construction.

Calendering: A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced.

Calico: A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a contrasting background color. Common end-uses include dresses, aprons, and quilts.

Camel's Hair: A natural fiber obtained from the hair of the Bactrian camel, a two-humped pack-carrying species. The fiber is used primarily in coats, sweaters, and suits.

Canvas: Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with a basic plain weave in heavy and firm weight yarns for industrial or heavy duty purposes. Also referred to as "duck", although the term "canvas" usually relates to the heavier, coarser constructions.

Capillary Action: A process by which liquids are drawn through the fabric and into pores found between fibers and yarns.

Carding: A process which eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the spun yarn. The process also removes

dirt and foreign matter still remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a very thin layer.

Cashmere: A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.

Cellulose: A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of many vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate.

Challis: A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon.

Chambray: A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns

Chenille – 1 : A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups. Each cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs. 2. A fabric woven from the chenille yarn.

Chiffon: A plain woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers.

Chino: Classic all-cotton "Army twill" fabric made of combed two-ply yarns. Usually vat dyed, mercerized, and given a compressive shrinkage finish. Used traditionally for army uniforms, chino is now finding popularity sportswear and work clothes.

Chintz: Glazed plain weave cotton fabric with a tioghtly spun fine warp and a coarser slack twist filling, often printed with brightly colored flowers or stripes. Named from Hindu word meaning spotted. Several types of glazes are used in the finishing process. Some glazes wash out in laundering, but others such as resin finishes are permanent. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Chintz end-uses include draperies, slipcovers, skirts, and summer dresses, and shirts.

Chintz: A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers.

Chlorinated Wool: Wool in the fiber, yarn, or fabric form which are treated chemically to decrease felting shrinkage and increase ability to take dyes.

Circular Knit: Weft knit fabric made on a circular needle-bed knitting machine, which produces fabric in tubular form. Common types include single or double knits. Seamless hosiery are also made on a circular knitting machine. Although allowances are made on the machine for knitting the welt and foot. See Knitting (Circular).

Cleaning: Hand operation in which the basting threads are removed from the garment; usually done prior to the final pressing

Closures: Items used to close openings in apparel and other consumer textile products, i.e. buttons, buckles, hook and eye, snaps and zippers.

Coated Fabrics: Fabrics that have been coated with a lacquer, varnish, rubber, plastic resin of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, or other substance to make them longer lasting or impervious to water or other liquids.

Collar: Two or more thicknesses of fabric attached to the neckhole opening to provide a firm and neat- appearing finish.

Continuous Cure: A method of curing durable press garments which uses a moving conveyor system to carry garments into and out of the curing oven. Also known as continuous oven.

Continuous Filament: A long continuous, unbroken strand of fiber extruded from a spinneret in the form of a monofilament. Most manufactured fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and acetate are made in continuous

filament form.

Converter: A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyers' specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

Corduroy: A fabric, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut

Core Yarn: A yarn in which one type of fiber is twisted or wrapped around another fiber that serves as a core. Core yarns are often used to make stretch fabrics where the core is spandex or rubber, and the outer wrapped fiber is a textured manufactured fiber such as polyester or nylon.

Core-Spun Yarns: Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber which has not been twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing thread as well as household and apparel fabrics are made from these yarns.

Cotton: A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.

Count of Cloth: The number of warp ends and picks per inch in a woven fabric. If a cloth is 68 X 72, it means there are 68 ends and 72 picks per inch in a woven fabric. A cloth that has the same number of ends and picks per inch in woven goods is called a square cloth. 80-square percale, for example, has 80 warp ends and 80 picks per inch.

Course: The rows of loops or stitches running across a knitted fabric. Corresponds to the weft or filling in woven goods.

Crabbing: A treatment used to set the cloth and yarn twists permanently in woolens and worsted goods.

Crease Resistant Finish: Also referred to as CRF. Finishes used on fabrics that make them resistant to wrinkling and creasing, such as synthetic resin type finishes like durable press. Today some fabrics are made highly resistant to wrinkling through fiber blending and construction.

Crease Retention: The ability of a cloth to hold or pleat or a crease, which has been intentionally created, through the use of a heat treatment. Heat setting of thermoplastic fibers causes creases to be permanently set.

Crepe-back Satin: A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.

Crinoline: A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction).

Crocking: The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process.

Crocking: The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking.

Crotch Seam: The short seam from the back of the pants fly to the inseam.

Cuff (lined): A cuff with interlining placed between the two pieces of body fabric.

Cuff (one-piece): A two-ply cuff formed by folding over a single piece of fabric, usually with a lining in between.

Cuff (topstitched): A cuff with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Cuff (two-piece): A cuff in which two identical pieces of fabric, usually with a lining in between, are joined by a seam along the edge, then turned and sometimes topstitched near the folded edges.

Cuprammonium: A process of producing a type of regenerated rayon fiber. In this process, the wood pulp or cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution. Bemberg rayon is a type of Cuprammonium rayon.

Curing: A baking process with the use of resin finishes, applying heat under carefully controlled conditions to a fabric or the garment, which cause a reaction in the finishing agents and make them work.Crease-retention, water repellency, wrinkle resistance, and durable press are examples of finishes that are cured.

Cut-on-cross: Fabric that is cut so that the warp runs horizontally across the garment piece.

Cashmere: A fine fiber obtained from the undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat

Chenille: Derived from the French word for "caterpillar". A special yarn with pile protruding on all sides, produced by first weaving a fabric, usually with cotton or linen warp and silk, wool, rayon or cotton weft; the warps are taped in groups of four and the wefts are beaten in very closely; after weaving, the fabric is cut lengthwise between each of these groups of warp yarns, each cutting producing a continuous chenille which is then twisted.

Chiffon: Plain weave, soft, sheer fabric - often silk or rayon yarns

Chintz: A cotton fabric, with or without a printed pattern, with a glaze created by applying resin and calendaring

Collage: A term used to describe the style of a product where more than two different fabrics are being used.

Cord: Cords consist of plied yarns (plies) that have been twisted together. When used for a seam a tape is sewn onto the edge of the cord.Cords are frequently used in place of fabric welting.

Corduroy: A cut-pile fabric, usually cotton, in which the ribbed pile is produced with a supplementary weft yarn

Cotton: A natural cellulosic seed-hair fiber, obtained from the seed pod of the cotton plant. First known in India about 3000 B.C.

Crewel: A hand embroidery technique from Kashmir in which fine, loosely twisted two-ply yarn is chain stitched on cotton cloth. Imperfections, color variations, irregularities, natural black specks, dye marks and dirt spots are characteristics that label it as genuine. These fabrics are hand woven by natives in India and the beauty of the cloth is in its natural, homespun appearance.

Crushed fabrics: Fabrics which are treated with heat, moisture and pressure in finishing to distort pile formation

Cut pile: A fabric in which the pile is cut rather than looped, creating a velvet effect.

Cut yardage: A fabric or trimming ordered to a specific measurement, as opposed to purchasing by the piece

Camel's Hair: A natural fiber obtained from the hair of the Bactrian camel, a two-humped pack-carrying species. The fiber is used primarily in coats, sweaters, and suits.

Capillary Action: A process by which liquids are drawn through the fabric and into pores found between fibers and yarns. Carding- A process which eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the spun yarn. The process also removes dirt and foreign matter still remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a very thin layer.

Cellulose: A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of many

vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate.

Chambray: A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarnsTextile Dictionary

Chenille- 1: A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups. Each cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs. 2. A fabric woven from the chenille yarn.

Chintz :A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers.

Chlorinated Wool: Wool in the fiber, yarn, or fabric form which are treated chemically to decrease felting shrinkage and increase ability to take dyes.Circular Knit- Weft knit fabric made on a circular needle-bed knitting machine, which produces fabric in tubular form. Common types include single or double knits. Seamless hosiery are also made on a circular knitting machine. Although allowances are made on the machine for knitting the welt and foot. See Knitting (Circular).

Cleaning: Hand operation in which the basting threads are removed from the garment; usually done prior to the final pressing.

Clo Value: A unit of thermal resistance. The insulation required to produce the necessary heat to keep an individual comfortable at 21 degrees Centigrade with air movement at .1 m/s. One clo is about equal to the insulation value of typical indoor clothing.Closures- Items used to close openings in apparel and other consumer textile products, i.e. buttons, buckles, hook and eye, snaps and zippers.

Collar: Two or more thicknesses of fabric attached to the neckhole opening to provide a firm and neat- appearing finish.Collar (Banded)- The visible or panel portion of the collar is cut separately and attached to the neckband portion. This is normal dress shirt construction.

Collar: The panel or visible portion of the collar and the neckband portion are cut as one piece, but folded once along the length to produce the appearance of a banded collar.

Collar (Lined): A collar made by placing a piece of interlining between the two pieces of body fabric.

Collar: A collar constructed from a single piece of fabric with the center fold forming the outer edge. Collar (padding)- Attaching the under-collar to canvas with several rows of blind stitching.

Collar (sandwich): A collar which has the top-collar inserted between the canvas and the under-collar.

Collar (topstitched): A collar with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Collar (two-piece): A collar formed by joining two identical pieces, inverting and sometimes topstitching along the folded edges.

Colorfastness:A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.

Comfort Stretch: The term given to the freedom of movement experienced in the wearing of a garment that contains spandex, or has stretch engineered into a yarn through mechanical stretch construction. Commercial Standards- "Recorded voluntary standards of the trade." The U.S. Bureau of Standards issues Commercial Standards which are not laws, but are important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by number, and spell out test procedures and minimum performance guidelines.

Compression Stretch: The name given to the expansive stretch that is created by the spandex fibers used in the development of a compression fabric.

Continuous Cure: A method of curing durable press garments which uses a moving conveyor system to carry garments into and out of the curing oven. Also known as continuous oven.

Core: Spun Yarns- Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber which has not been twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing thread as well as household and apparel fabrics are made from these yarns.

Course: The rows of loops or stitches running across a knitted fabric. Corresponds to the weft or filling in woven goods.

Crabbing: A treatment used to set the cloth and yarn twists permanently in woolens and worsted goods.Crease Resistant Finish- Also referred to as CRF. Finishes used on fabrics that make them resistant to wrinkling and creasing, such as synthetic resin type finishes like durable press. Today some fabrics are made highly resistant to wrinkling through fiber blending and construction.

Crinoline: A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction).

Crocking: The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking.

Crotch Seam: The short seam from the back of the pants fly to the inseam.

Cuff (lined): A cuff with interlining placed between the two pieces of body fabric.

Cuff (one-piece): A two-ply cuff formed by folding over a single piece of fabric, usually with a lining in between.

Cuff (topstitched): A cuff with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Cuff (two-piece):A cuff in which two identical pieces of fabric, usually with a lining in between, are joined by a seam along the edge, then turned and sometimes topstitched near the folded edges.

Curing: A baking process with the use of resin finishes, applying heat under carefully controlled conditions to a fabric or the garment, which cause a reaction in the finishing agents and make them work. Crease-retention, water repellency, wrinkle resistance, and durable press are examples of finishes that are cured.

Damask: A figured woven fabric in which the design is created by the use of satin and sateen weaves.

Decitex: A unit of the tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn.

Denier: A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn.

Denim: A 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn-dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn. Traditionally, the warp yarn was indigo-dyed.

Dent: The space between adjacent wires in a reed.

Dip Dyeing: A process in which a garment is dipped into a dye bath to achieve dye take-up only in those areas immersed.

Dobby: A mechanism for controlling the vertical position of heald shafts on a loom, so as to selectively raise some warp threads while leaving others depressed. The use of a dobby facilitates the weaving of a fabric which has a more complex structure.

Dogstooth or Houndstooth Check: A small colour and weave effect using a 2/2 twill.

Donegal: A tweed yarn or fabric with different colour neps.

Doupion: A fabric made of irregular, raw, rough silk reeled from double cocoons, or a man-made fibre substitute designed to imitate the silk equivalent.

Drafting: A process which reduces the linear density of an assembly of fibres. Drafting typically occurs in the early stages of producing yarns from staple fibres. Draw spinning: A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the orientation is introduced after melt spinning but prior to the first forwarding or collecting device.

Draw Twist: A process of orienting a filament yarn by drawing it and then twisting it in integrated sequential stages Drill: A twill fabric, usually piece-dyed, similar in construction to a denim.

Dry Spinning: In the dry spinning process, polymer is dissolved in a solvent before being spun into warm air where the solvent evaporates. This leaves the fibrous polymer ready for drawing.

Dye Liquor: The liquid that contains the dye and the reagents necessary for dyeing.

Damask: A classic that has remained unchanged for years, a damask is a fabric with a woven pattern similar to brocade but flatter and reversible. Usually woven in one color, the weave used for the background differs than the weave of the pattern and is made visible by the effect of light striking the contrasting satin and matte surface areas. Originally made of silk, damasks are now made of linen, cotton, rayon and wool or a combination of any two.

Denim: A very serviceable and heavy cotton twill, and easily recognized by the traditional indigo blue.

Damask: A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. The patterns are flat and reversible. The fabric is often used in napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.

Dart (cut-in): An open dart cut in approximately 12" under the armhole.

Dart (front or double): An additional closed dart located toward the front edge of the garment, used to get maximum waist suppression.

Dart (panel): A panel sewn full length to the front that is used for waist suppression.

Denier: A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk, but excluding glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber.

Denier Per Filament: The size of an individual filament, or an individual staple fiber if it were continuous, The dpf is determined by dividing the yarn denier per filament by the number of filaments in the yarn.

Denim: True denim is a twill weave cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different

Double Knit: A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be searated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. both sides. Today, most double knits are made of I5O denier polyester, although many lightweight versions are now being made using finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns.

Double Weave: A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarns.

Down: The soft, fluffy fiber or underfeathers of ducks, geese, or other water fowl. Used primarily for insulation in outerwear garments.

Duck: A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men's and women's slacks, and children's play clothes.

Durability: The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.

Durable Press: A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering.

Durable Water Repellent (DWR): Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating

Dye (Piece): Dyeing of the fabric into solid colors after weaving or knitting.

Dye (Yarn): Dyeing of the yarn into solid colors before weaving or knitting.

Damask: Originally a rich silk fabric with woven floral designs made in China and introduced into Europe through Damascus, from which it derived its name. Typically, damasks are woven with a single beam (warp) with one or two weft colors. The fancy damasks reveal the smooth warp satin in the background with the low luster reverse sating in the motif. In two color damasks the colors reverse on either side. Single damask is made with a five-harness satin weave; the true or double or reverse damask, is woven with an eight-harness satin weave and has a firm hand

Denim: Yarn-dyed cotton cloth woven in a warp-faced twill, usually with a dyed warp and a natural weft

Density: A standard measurement of thickness in fabric weight. Yarn size, amount of warp ends and weft picks determine the density

Doupione :An irregular, slub silk reeled from double cocoons or silk worms which have spun their cocoons side by side causing an interlock, making it necessary to reel them together. Antique taffetas and sheers are woven with doupioni weft yarn, as are many damasks

Duck: A broad term for a wide range of plain weave fabrics, duck is usually made of cotton, although sometimes linen is used. The terms canvas and duck are often interchangeable, but "canvas" often is used to refer to the heavier constructions. The term "duck" had its origins before the mid 19^th Century when all canvas for sails were imported. The light flax sail fabrics imported mostly from England and Scotland bore the trademark stencil of a raven while the weights bore the trademark picturing a duck. The word "duck" became associated with a heavy fabric and was applied to cotton canvas when it was first manufactured in the U.S.

Dart (cut-in): An open dart cut in approximately 12" under the armhole

Dart (front or double): An additional closed dart located toward the front edge of the garment, used to get maximum waist suppression.

Dart (panel): A panel sewn full length to the front that is used for waist suppression.

Denim: True denim is a twill weave cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.

Dobby Weave: A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine t coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy apparel

Doeskin: Generally used to describe a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like feel on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men's' sportswear.

Donegal Tweed: A medium to heavy, plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful yarn slubs are woven into the fabric. The name originally applied to a hand-woven woolen tweed fabric made in Donegal, Ireland. End-uses include winter coats and suits.

Dotted Swiss: A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains.

Double Cloth: A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different

Double Knit: A fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine using interlocking loops and a double stitch on a double needle frame to form a fabric with double thickness. It is the same on both sides. Today, most double knits are made of I5O denier polyester, although many lightweight versions are now being made using finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns.

Double Knit: A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction.

Down: The soft, fluffy fiber or underfeathers of ducks, geese, or other water fowl. Used primarily for insulation in outerwear garments.

Durable Press: A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering.

Durable Water Repellent (DWR): Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating

Dye (Piece): Dyeing of the fabric into solid colors after weaving or knitting.

Dye (Yarn): Dyeing of the yarn into solid colors before weaving or knitting.

Elastane: A man-made fibre containing at least 85% polyurethane which is capable of high stretch followed by rapid and substantial recovery to its unstretched length.

Embossing: A process in which a pattern is formed in relief by passing fabric through a calender in which a heated metal bowl engraved with a pattern is compressed against a soft bowl.

Embroidery: A decorative pattern superimposed on an existing fabric by machine stitching or hand needlework.

Emerised: A fabric which has been passed over a series of emery-covered rollers to produce a suede-like finish.

Embroidery: The art of decorating fabric with yarn or thread and needle, this ornamental needlework can be done by hand or on a machine.

Edge :The front margin of the garment that extends from front corner to front corner

Edge Tape: A tape sewn along the front edge of a coat from top of the lapel to bottom of the facing. On less expensive coats, this tape starts at the bottom of the lapel (called the breakline). The tape is usually sewn with an edge-knife machine.

Elasticity: The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after the removal of stress.

Embroidery: An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which colored threads are sewn on to the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be done either by hand or machine.

Encapsulation: A process in which the fibers of a fabric are coated with a filmy substance to create certain high performance qualities, such as breathability.

Ergonomic Seaming: This apparel construction technology is aimed at maximizing comfort and ease of movement. The key feature of this seaming technology is that the seams are constructed ergonomically. Therefore, the seams flow according to the body's natural movements, regardless of the type of activity engaged in by the wearer. The seams are placed away from potential pressure points, in order to maximize comfort and movement.

Eyelet: A type of fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around which stitching or embroidery may be applied in order to prevent the fabric from raveling.

Ergonomics: The study of improving a garment design by enhancing the wearers' comfort, performance, or health.

False Twist: The twist inserted in yarn using false twisting such that the net twist in the yarn is zero.

Fancy Yarn: A yarn which differs from the normal construction of single and folded yarns by way of deliberately produced irregularities in its construction. These irregularities are formed by increasing the input of one or more of the yarns components.

Fell (of the cloth): The edge of the fabric in a weaving loom formed by the last weft thread.

Felting: The matting together of fibres during processing. This is achieved on animal hair or wool by the

application of moisture or heat, which causes the constituent fibres to mat together.

Fibre: A material used to make textiles which is flexible, fine, and has a high ratio of length to thickness.

Fibrefill: Staple fibres used for stuffing or padding quilts, upholstery and toys, etc.

Fibroin: A tough, elastic protein which forms the principal component of raw silk.

Fil Coupé: Extra, floating, wefts which are embodied in a fabric, particularly a jacquard, and can be cut to produce a fringe effect.

Filament: A fibre of indefinite length. Flame resistant: a term used to describe fibres, yarns or fabrics which resist burning.

Flame Retardant: A substance added or a treatment applied to a material in order to suppress, significantly reduce or delay the propagation of flame

Flannel: Generally, a cotton or wool fabric, which has been napped on one or both sides (usually both) followed by a bleaching, dyeing or printing process and then brushed or rerun through the napping machine to revive the nap.

Flared Leg: A style of jeans which are tightly fitted around the hips and thighs of a person but become much wider from the knees downwards

Flax: The fibre used to make linen textiles.

Fleece fabric: A fabric, usually knitted, with a heavy napped surface on one side. The fabric is produced using two types of yarn, one for the face area and the other for the reverse.

Floating (Warp) :A length of warp yarn which passes over two or more weft threads (rather than intersecting with them) in a woven structure.

Flock: A material obtained by reducing textile fibres to fragments by, for example, cutting, tearing, or grinding.

Flock Printing: A process in which a fabric is printed with an adhesive, followed by the application of finely chopped fibres over the whole surface of the fabric by means of dusting-on, an air blast, or electrostatic attraction. The fibres adhere to the printed areas, and are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical action.

Flocking :A process in which short chopped lengths of fibre (flock) are applied to an adhesive coated backing fabric or other substrate. The application is usually carried out electrostatically.

Foam Printing: A process in which a rubber solution is turned into a foam and squeezed through a screen to make a rubber print. Also known as puff rubber printing.

(FOB)Free-on-board: goods are delivered on-board a ship or to another carrier at no cost to the buyer.

Folded Yarn: A yarn made by twisting two or more single yarns together in one operation

Free Shrinkage: Spontaneous shrinkage in the absence of outside influences such as heat or a liquid.

Free Swell Absorbency: The weight of fluid in grams that can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric.

Fretting: the wearing away of filaments through friction. Fuji silk: a spun-silk fabric woven in a plain weave.

Flounce: Hanging strips of material which are normally sewn to the hem of a skirt.

Fringe: An example of trim or embellishment that is used on draperies, upholstery and other soft home décorating goods.

Frieze: A pile fabric with uncut loops with the patterns created by cutting some of the loops or using different color yarns.

Face Finished Fabrics: Fabrics which have surface treatments that provide a variety of looks and effects on the fabric surface. These include brushing, sanding, sueding, etc. The warp knit industry is specially innovative with face finishing techniques

Facing: A piece of fabric that is sewn to the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look.

Faille: A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers

Fell: To join two pieces of material with the edges folded together using double needle stitching.

Felt: A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibers, where the fibers are locked together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact material.

Fiberfill: Specially engineered manufactured fibers, which are used as filler material in pillows, mattresses, mattress pads, sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, and outerwear

Filamen: A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production process.

Filling: In a woven fabric, the yarns that run cross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and which run perpendicular to the warp or lengthwise yarns. Also referred to as the weft.

Findings :Any extra items attached to a garment during the manufacturing process. This can include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or embellishments.

Flame Resistant: Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses.

Flannel: A medium-weight, plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool. The fabric has a very soft hand, brushed on both sides to lift the fiber ends out of the base

fabric and create a soft, fuzzy surface. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.

Flannelette: A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.

Flax: The plant from which cellulosic linen fiber is obtained. Linen is used in apparel, accessories, draperies, upholstery, tablecloths, and towels.

Fleece: The wool shorn from any sheep, or from any animal in the wool category.

Fleece Fabric: A lightweight fabric with a thick, heavy fleece-like surface. It may be a pile or napped fabric, or either woven or knit construction. End uses include coats, jackets, blankets, etc. Fleece fabrics are available in a variety of constuctions: 1) Polarfleece® is the original fleece fabric, developed in 1979, by Malden Mills. It is typically used for non-technical garments, and it is only available at Malden Mills®; 2) Polartec®, also developed by Malden Mills, was created for today's high-performance technical garments, which provides enhanced durability warmth, wind resistance, breathability and weather protection.

Flocking: A type of raised decoration applied to the surface of a fabric in which an adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific pattern, and then finely chopped fibers are applied by means of dusting, air-brushing, or electrostatic charges. The fibers adhere only to the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and the excess fibers are removed by mechanical means.

Foulard: A lightweight twill-weave fabric, made from filament yarns like silk, acetate, polyester, with a small all-over print pattern on a solid background. The fabric is often used in men's ties.

Four-way Stretch: A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. It is the same as two-way stretch.

Front(stitched down): A front the has a double-turned hem that is stiched down full length of the front. The term may also refer to the shell (outside) front of self-goods.

Full-cut: Not tapered.

Fungicide: Kills fungi. Fungistat - Inhibits fungal growth

Felt: A fabric made from fibers not taken to yarn form but instead intermeshed by heat, moisture and agitation or a fabric made by shrinking and agitating woven or knit cloth to obtain superior density, resilience and strength.

Fiberglass: A manmade mineral fiber extruded in continuous filaments.

Filament: A continuous strand of silk or manmade fiber.

Flame retardant fabric: A manmade fabric whose fiber content is officially acceptable for most fire code requirements.

Flange: Using fabric, a decorative finish sewn into a seam. To avoid the dog-ear affect a pellon may be inserted to stabilize the flange.Flannel A woolen fabric whose surface is slightly napped in finish.

Float: The portion of a warp or weft yarn that rides over two or more opposing yarns to form a sleek face, as in satin or is grouped to form a pattern on the face, as in brocade.

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Textile Dictionary Started from A

ABNORMAL CRIMP:
A relative term for crimp that is either too low or too high in frequency and/or
amplitude or that has been put into the fiber with improper angular characteristics.
ABRADED YARN:
A filament yarn in which filaments have been cut or broken to create hairiness
(fibrillation) to simulate the surface character of spun yarns. Abraded yarns are usually plied or
twisted with other yarns before use.
ABRASION MARK:
An area where a fabric has been damaged by friction.
ABRASION RESISTANCE:
The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.
ABSORBANCE:
The ability of a substance to transform radiant energy into a different form, usually
with a resulting rise in temperature. Mathematically, absorbance is the negative logarithm to the
base 10 of transmittance.
ABSORBENCY:
The ability of one material to take up another material.
ABSORPTION: The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fiber, yarn, or
fabric. (Also see ADSORPTION.)
ACCELERANT:
A chemical used to speed up chemical or other processes. For example,
accelerants are used in dyeing triacetate and polyester fabrics.
ACETATE FIBER:
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is cellulose acetate
(FTC definition). Acetate is manufactured by treating purified cellulose refined from cotton linters
and/or wood pulp with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. The resultant product, cellulose
acetate flake, is precipitated, purified, dried, and dissolved in acetone to prepare the spinning
solution. After filtration, the highly viscous solution is extruded through spinnerets into a column of
warm air in which the acetone is evaporated, leaving solid continuous filaments of cellulose acetate.
The evaporated acetone is recovered using a solvent recovery system to prepare additional
spinning solution. The cellulose acetate fibers are intermingled and wound onto a bobbin or
shippable metier cheese package, ready for use without further chemical processing. In the
manufacture of staple fiber, the filaments from numerous spinnerets are combined into tow form,
crimped, cut to the required length, and packaged in bales.
ACETIC ACID:
An organic acid (CH3COOH) widely used in textile applications. It is used in textile
wet processing, dyeing and printing, and in the manufacture of cellulose acetate and cellulose
triacetate.
ACETIC ANHYDRIDE:
Anhydrous acetic acid [(CH3CO)2O]. It is used in the acetylation process
in the manufacture of cellulose acetate.
ACETONE:
Dimethyl ketone (CH3COCH3). One of the most powerful organic solvents. Acetone
dissolves secondary cellulose acetate and other derivatives of cellulose. It is miscible with water
and has a low boiling point (55-56°C).
ACETONE RECOVERY:
A process for reclaiming the acetone solvent from acetate fiber or
plastics manufacture. Usually the recovery process consists of adsorption by activated carbon and
re-distillation.
ACETYL:
The radical (CH3CO-) of acetic acid.
ACETYLATION:
A chemical reaction whereby the acetyl radical is introduced into a compound, as
in the conversion of cellulose to cellulose acetate.
ACETYL VALUE:
A measure of the degree of esterification or combination of acetyl radicals with
cellulose in acetate or triacetate products.
ACID-DYEABLE VARIANTS:
Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to acid dyes.
ACID DYES:
See DYES.
ACID FADING:
See GAS FADING.
ACIDIC:
A term describing a material having a pH of less than 7.0 in water.
ACID RECOVERY:
A reclamation process in chemical processing in which acid is extracted from
a raw material, by-product, or waste product. In the manufacture of cellulose acetate, acetic acid is
a major by-product. Acid recovery consists of combining all wash water containing appreciable
acetic acid and concentrating it to obtain glacial acetic acid.
ACID RESISTANCE:
The property of withstanding contact or treatment with any acids normally
encountered in use. The type of acid should be stated (i.e., organic or inorganic).
ACRYLIC FIBER:
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units [-CH2-CH(CN)-] (FTC
definition). Acrylic fibers are produced by two basic methods of spinning (extrusion), dry and wet. In
the dry spinning method, material to be spun is dissolved is a solvent. After extrusion through the
spinneret, the solvent is evaporated, producing continuous filaments which later may be cut into
staple, if desired. In wet spinning, the spinning solution is extruded into a liquid coagulating bath to
form filaments, which are drawn, dried, and processed. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
ACRYLIC RESIN:
A polymer of acrylonitrile, used in the production of manufactured fibers, asa
fabric finish and as a size.
ACRYLONITRILE:
A colorless, volatile, flammable liquid (CH2=CHCN) used as a rawmaterial in
the manufacture of acrylic polymers and fibers.
ACTINIC DEGRADATION:
See ULTRAVIOLET DEGRADATION.
ACTINIC RESISTANCE:
See ULTRAVIOLET RESISTANCE.
ACTION STRETCH:
A term applied to fabrics and garments that give and recover in both the
lengthwise and the widthwise directions. Action stretch is ideal for tight-fitting garments such as ski
pants.
ACTIVATED CARBON:
Charcoal, mostly of vegetable origin, of high adsorptive capacity. It is
used for decolorizing liquids and other adsorption purifications. Usually made by carbonization and
chemical activation.
ADDITION POLYMERIZATION:
A reaction yielding a polymer in which the molecular formula of the
repeating unit is identical with that of the monomer. The molecular weight of a polymer so formed is
a simple sum of the molecular weight of the combined monomer units. Combination occurs by
means of rearrangement of the chemical bonds.
ADDITIVE:
A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties.
For example, pigments are used as dope additives to give color in mass dyeing. © 2001, Celanese
Acetate LLC
ADHESION:
The force that holds different materials together at their interface and resists
separation into two layers.
ADHESION PROMOTERS:
Products used to treat the smooth fiber-face of closely constructed
base fabric to provide a chemical bonding site for subsequent coating. This step is done because it
is difficult to get good coating adhesion via strikethrough and mechanical bonding in closely
constructed fabrics. Products containing the isocyanate group are the most widely used promoters.
(Also see DIP TREATING.)
ADHESIVE ACTIVATED YARNS:
Yarns treated by the fiber manufacturer to promote better
adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to allow easier processing.
ADHESIVE MIGRATION:
In nonwovens, the movement of adhesive together with its carrier solvent
in a fabric during drying, giving it a non-uniform distribution within the web, usually increasing to the
outer layers.
ADHESIVES:
In textiles, materials which cause fibers, yarns, or fabrics to stick together or to other
materials.
ADIPIC ACID:
1,4-butanedicarboxylic acid [COOH(CH2)4COOH]. It is used in the polymerization
reaction to form nylon 66 polymers and in the manufacture of polyurethane foams.
ADSORPTION:
The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to surface areas of textile fibers, yarns,
fabrics, or any material. (Also see ABSORPTION.)
ADVANCED COMPOSITE:
Polymer, resin, or other matrix-material system in which reinforcement
is accomplished via high-strength, high-modulus materials in continuous filament form or is
discontinuous form such as staple fibers, fibrets, and in-situ dispersions. (Also see COMPOSITE.)
AESTHETICS:
In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, color, luster,
drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.
AFFINITY:
Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine,
such as fiber and dyestuff.
AFTERGLOW:
The flameless, glowing combustion of certain solid materials that occurs after the
removal of an external source of ignition or after the cessation of combustion of the material.
AFTERTREATMENT:
Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating
dyed material in ways to improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried
out after a web has been formed and bonded. Examples are embossing, creping, softening,
printing, and dyeing.
AGEING:
1. Deterioration of textile or other materials caused by gradual oxidation during storage
and/or exposure to light. 2. The oxidation stage of alkali-cellulose in the manufacture of viscose
rayon from bleached wood pulp. 3. Originally, a process in which printed fabric was exposed to a
hot, moist atmosphere. Presently, the term is applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist
steam in the absence of air. Ageing is also used for the development of certain colors in dyeing,
e.g., aniline black. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
AGER:
A steam chamber used for ageing printed or padded material.
AGGLOMERATION:
A cluster of particles or fibers.
AGITATE:
To stir or to mix, as in the case of a dyebath or solution.
AIR BAG:
An automatically inflating bag in front of riders in an automobile to protect them from
pitching forward in an accident. End use for manufactured textile fibers.
AIR BRUSHING:
Blowing color on a fabric or paper with a mechanized pneumatic brush.
AIR CONDITIONING:
1. A chemical process for sealing short, fuzzy fibers into a yarn. Fabrics
made from air-conditioned yarns are porous. Because they allow more air circulation, these fabrics
are also cooler.
2. Control of temperature and/or humidity in work or living space.
AIR ENTANGLED YARNS:
See COMPACTED YARNS.
AIR FORMING:
A process in which air is used to separate and move fibers to fashion a web such
as the Kroyer® process for short fibers, usually of wood pulp; or the Rando-Webber® process for
staple-length fibers.
AIR JET SPINNING:
A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core
stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process, the fibers are drafted to appropriate sliver
size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse
direction in a second chamber. They are stabilized after each twisting operation.
AIR JET TEXTURING:
See TEXTURING.
AIR-LAID NONWOVENS:
Fabrics made by an air-forming process (q.v.). The fibers are
distributed by air currents to give a random orientation within the web and a fabric with isotropic
properties.
AIR PERMEABILITY:
The porosity or the ease with which air passes through material. Air
permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of
parachute cloth, and the efficacy of various types of air filters. It also influences the warmth or
coolness of a fabric. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
AIRPLANE FABRIC:
A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized
cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover
the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton
blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.
AIR-SUPPORTED ROOF:
A fabric-based roofing system that is supported and held in place by air
pressure.
ALBATROSS:
A soft, lightweight wool or wool blend fabric in a plain weave with a napped, fleecy
surface that resembles in texture, the breast of the albatross. It is usually light-colored and is used in
negligees, infants’ wear, etc.
ALGINATE FIBER:
Fiber formed from a metallic salt (normally calcium) of alginic acid, which is a
natural polymer occurring in seaweed. Alginate fiber is soluble in water.
ALKALINE:
A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in water.
ALKYLATION:
The introduction of an alkyl radical into an organic molecule.
ALLOY:
A solid or liquid mixture of two or more metals; or of one or more metals with certain
nonmetallic elements formed by fusing the components.
ALPACA:
1. Long, fine hair from Alpaca sheep.
2. A fabric from alpaca fibers or blends, (originally
a cotton cloth with alpaca filling) that is used for dresses, coats, suits, and sweaters. It is also used
as a pile lining for jackets and coats. (The term has been incorrectly used to describe a rayon
fabric.)
ALPACA STITCH:
A 1 x 1 purl-links stitch that is knit so that the courses run vertically instead of
horizontally as the fabric comes off the knitting machine. A garment made with an alpaca stitch is
not always
100% alpaca; it can be made of other natural or manufactured fibers.
ALPHA CELLULOSE:
One of three forms of cellulose. Alpha cellulose has the highest degree of
polymerization and is the chief constituent of paper pulp and chemical dissolving-grade pulp. (Also
see BETA
CELLULOSE and GAMMA CELLULOSE.)
ALSIMAG®:
Registered trademark of American Lava Corporation for ceramic materials. These
materials are used in guides and discs on textile processing machines and fiber manufacturing
equipment.
ALTERNATING TWIST:
A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted in the
yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.
AMBIENT CONDITIONS:
See ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS.
AMINE END GROUP:
The terminating (-NH2) group of a nylon polymer chain. Amine end groups
provide dye sites for polyamides.
AMORPHOUS:
Noncrystalline, lacking regular geometrical shape. Used to describe certain
regions in polymers. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
ANGORA:
1. The hair of the Angora goat. The long, fine fibers are so smooth and soft that they
must be combined with other fibers in weaving.
2. The hair of the Angora rabbit. The fine, lightweight
hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in
weaving. By law, the fiber must be described as Angora rabbit hair.
ANHYDRIDE:
A compound formed by abstraction of water, usually from an acid. Example: acetic
anhydride, which is used in converting cellulose to cellulose acetate.
ANIDEX FIBER:
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of one or more esters of a monohydric
alcohol and acrylic acid, (CH2=CH-COOH) (FTC definition).
ANILINE DYES:
See DYES.
ANIMAL FIBERS:
Fibers of animal origin such as wool, alpaca, camel hair, and silk.
ANION:
A negatively charged ion.
ANISOTROPIC:
Not having the same physical properties in every direction. In the plane of a fabric,
it is related to a non-random distribution of fibers.
ANTHRAQUINONE DYES:
See DYES.
ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH:
A treatment of a textile material to make it resistant to, or to retard
growth of, bacteria.
ANTICHLOR:
A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excess chlorine after
bleaching.
ANTIFELTING AGENTS:
Products that prevent or minimize matting and compaction of textile
materials.
ANTIFOAMING AGENT:
An additive that minimizes the formation of bubbles within or on the
surface of a liquid by reducing the forces that support the bubble’s structure.
ANTIOXIDANT:
A substance to retard deterioration (of fiber, fabrics, finishes, etc.) resulting from
reaction with oxygen.
ANTISOILING PROPERTIES:
The properties of textile materials whereby they resist deposition of
dirt and stains.
ANTISTAINING PROPERTIES:
The ability of a textile to resist the deposition of oil- or water-borne
stains.
ANTISTATIC AGENT:
A reagent capable of preventing, reducing, or dissipating static electrical
charges that may be produced on textile materials.
ANTISTATIC PROPERTIES:
The ability of a textile material to disperse an electrostatic charge
and to prevent the build up of static electricity. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
APPLIQUE:
A design made separately and then sewn on a cloth or garment.
APRON MARK:
See DECATING MARK.
ARACHNE MACHINE:
A machine for producing loop-bonded nonwovens. The fabric is formed by
knitting a series of warp yarns through a fiber web processed on a card. (Also see BONDING, 2.
Stitch Bonding.)
ARAMID FIBER:
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic
polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH-CO-) attached directly to two aromatic
rings (FTC definition). Aramid fibers exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus.
Fabrics made from aramid fibers maintain their integrity at high temperatures, such fabrics are
used extensively in hot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables,
and tire cord.
ARGYLE:
A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colors knit in a fabric.
ARTIFICIAL TURF:
A manufactured carpet having the appearance of grass. Used to replace
grass in sports arenas, yards, etc. (Also see RECREATIONAL SURFACES.)
ART LINEN:
A plain-weave, softly finished fabric used either bleached or unbleached as a base
fabric for needlework.
ASBESTOS:
A nonmetallic mineral fiber, which is nonflammable. The fiber is woven into fabrics
and used for theater curtains and industrial uses where flame-resistant materials are needed.
ASPECT RATIO:
1. The ratio of length to diameter of a fiber or yarn bundle.
2. In tire production,
the ratio of the height of the tire to its width. 3. In a rectangular structure, the ratio of the longer
dimension to the shorter.
ASPHALT OVERLAY FABRICS:
See GEOTEXTILES.
ASTRAKHAN CLOTH:
A thick knit or woven fabric with loops or curls on the face. The base yarns
are usually cotton or wool and the loops are made with fibers such as mohair, wool, and certain
manufactured fibers. The face simulated the pelt of the astrakhan lamb.
ATACTIC POLYMER:
A type of polymer molecule in which substituent groups or atoms are
arranged randomly above and below the backbone chain of atoms, when the latter are all in the
same plane (e.g., in polypropylene). (Also see ISOTACTIC POLYMER, SYNDIOTACTIC
POLYMER, and TACTIC POLYMER.)
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS:
In general, the relative humidity, barometric pressure, and temperature existing at a given time.
ATMOSPHERIC FADING: See GAS FADING. © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC
ATTRITION MILLS: Machines for reducing materials into smaller particles by grinding down by
friction. In the manufacture of acetate and triacetate fibers, equipment used in shredding pulp prior
to acetylation.
AUTOCLAVE:
1. An apparatus for carrying out certain finishing operation, such as pleating and
heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere.
2. Apparatus for polymerizing
condensation polymers such as nylon or polyester at any pressure above or below atmospheric.
AVERAGE STIFFNESS:
The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points on a
stress strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress. (Also see
MODULUS).
AVERAGE TOUGHNESS:
See TOUGHNESS.
AXIAL YARN:
A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias
yarns.
AXMINSTER CARPET:
A machine-woven carpet in which successive weft-wise rows of pile are
inserted during weaving according to a predetermined arrangement of colors. There are four main
types of Axminster looms: Spool, Gripper, Gripper-Spool, and Chenille.
AZLON FIBER:
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance consists of any
regenerated naturally occurring proteins (FTC definition). Azlon is not currently produced in the
United States.
AZO DYES:
See DYES.
AZOIC DYES:
See DYES, Naphthol Dyes.

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Different Parts of a Loom

Different Parts of a Loom

Short Description of a simple Loom is Given Below:

Heald/Heddle: Wire or cords with eyelets that hold warp yarns in a place.

Function:

1. It helps in shed formation

2. It is useful in identifying broken ends

3. It determines the order or sequence of the warp threads

4. It determines the warp thread density in a fabric.

Heald shaft/Harness: A wood or metal frame that holds the headl /heddles I position in the loom during weaving. It is usually more than one.

Shuttle: This is a vehicle for weft & passes through the divided warp for the interlacement of the warp & weft.

Shuttle box: Compartment of each end of the sley of a shuttle loom used to retain the shuttle between picking motion.

Picker: It is a piece of leather or other metal placed in grooves or on a spindle inside a shuttle box.

Beams: A cylindrical body with end flanges on which a multiple of warp ends is wound in such way to permit the removal of these yarns as a warp sheet.

Front rest: It is a fixed roller placed in front of the loom above the cloth beam & act as a guide for the cloth to wind on to the cloth beam.

Lease rods: The division of warp yarn into one & one, two & two, & so on is termed as lease. The two rods passed between the two successive divisions of warp yarns are called lease rods.

Slay: It is the portion of loom that carries the reed and oscillates between the harness & the fell of the cloth.

Reed: A comb like wire or device used to separate yarns on a loom & to beat up the filling during weaving.

Treadle: The treadle is a paddle or lever under a loom with which a thread is connected by means

of cords.

Temple: Roller device on a loom that hold the cloth at a proper width to prevent it from being drawn in too much by the filling.

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Faults in gray fabric before wet processing or dyeing

Faults in gray fabric before wet processing or dyeing

Fabric defects are identified during the grey inspection of the fabric after weaving or knitting.

These defects are classified into three groups

1. Avoidable and unavoidable

2. Major and minor

3. Mendable and unmendable

While most of the defects in the fabric are avoidable some are unavoidable such as certain floats/smashes.

Defect such as weft crack is considered to be a minor if it is within 1-2 cm while the same defect is major when it is more than 2cm.

Certain defects such as isolated snarls (knots of yarn on fabric surface) could be mended (repaired) while the others such as big cracks are unmendable.

BAR

A general terms for a band running across the full width of the cloth due to difference in the appearance from its adjacent sites. It covers

· Pick bar,

· Starting Mark,

· Tension bar or shiner and Weft bar

BOX MARK:

A widthwise line showing stained or injured weft due to the rubbing of shuttle when rebound.

BROKEN PATTERN

This defect may be due to wrong drawing of thread, inserting a pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp thread.

BROKEN PICK

A pick missing from a portion of the width of the fabric due to rough shuttle-eyes which snag the weft.

CRACKES

A narrow streak running parallel to the weft due to pronounced opening between two adjacent yarns caused due to the erratic operation of the sley.

CUT WEFT

A pinhole in the finished fabric caused by the use of weak weft with a strong warp.

FLOATS STITCHES

A place in the fabric where warp and weft yarns escape the required interlacement due to entanglement of warp threads.

FUZZY

Fibrous appearance of the cloth due to the presence of abraded(rubbed away by friction) yarns.

HANG PICK

A pick which is out of line for a short distance producing a triangular shaped hole in a fabric.

HARNESS (WARP) SKIP

Warp yarns appearing more or less continuously on the surface of the fabric due to non interlacement of weft yarns.

LASHING IN

Also known as weft trail or jark in weft it is caused by an extra yarn dragged into the cloth along with the regular pick.

LOOSE WARP ENDS

Loose warp ends which appear like a reed mark are caused by loose ends which start to feed in just a trifle faster than the rest of the warp.

HANGING THREADS

Ends loose on the face of the fabric because the short and long ends of the fabric are not removed by the weaver.

MISSING ENDS

The most common defect characterized by a gap of one or more warp threads in a fabric caused due to unmended broken ends, missing ends and high incidence of warp breakages.

REED MARKS

A ready cloth shows irregular spacing between groups of warp yarns across the width of the fabric caused by a damaged or defective reed or too late reed shedding.

SHUTTLE MARKS

Widthwise warp yarns due to abrasion of warp yarns by shuttle.

SLOUGH-OFF

Bulk of weft yarns which slips off the pirn and get entangled into fabric caused due the loose winding of pirn.

STICKER

A distortion in a weave characterized by tight and slack places in the same warp yarn or fabric.

STAINS

Stains such as grease, rust etc occur due to poor material handling.

TEAR DROPS

Appearing in taffeta fabrics as short curved picks caused due to insufficient warp tension, incorrect heald timing, oversized warp and uneven penetration of sizing solution etc.

TEMPLE MARK

holes or surface disturbances along the selvage of the fabric. Due to bad or improperly adjusted temples.

UNEVEN CLOTH

Inconsistent diameters of the weft produces a shady cloth where principle of weft mixing is not used.

WRONG DENTING/DRAWING

The wrong order of drawing ends through healds and reeds respectively also creates fabric defects

Slacked selvedge: Caused due the incorrect balance of cloth structure between the body and the selvedge.

URENA

URENA

This is a bast fiber that comes from the plant Urena Lobata.

Urena

The leaves and flowers are also a famine food in Africa.

Production and Processing:-

The urena plant is a perennial (means grown once in year), with stalks that grow to a height of 3m (10 ft).

After harvesting, the stalks are retted like jute in ponds or slow streams for 1 - 2 weeks. The fibres are stripped from the retted stalks by hand and washed to remove unwanted material.

Structure and Properties:-

Urena has an attractive handle and appearance. It is near-white when carefully retted, and is soft to the touch. It has a natural lustre.

The fiber has strength similar to that of jute.

Strands of commercial urena are often 1.2m (4 ft) long.

Individual cells of urena are generally less than 2.6mm (1/10^thin) long. The lumen as in the kenaf cell is usually irreragular.

Urena in Use:-

1- Unera is made into yarn and fabrics similar to those that are made from jute.

2- Much of it is used for sacking.

Sunn

SUNN

The plant Crotalaria juncea has been grown in India and Pakistan since prehistoric times. It is a source of the bast fiber known as sunn.

Production and Processing:-

It grows to the height of 3m ( 10 ft), with stalks nearly 2.5cm (1 in) thick.

It is cultivated and harvested in India and Bangladash in a manner similar to jute. In 1976, the world production of sunn amounted to about 6,000 tonnes.

Structure and Properties:-

Sunn is a light coloured fiber when carefully prepared. It has a fine luster.

Sunn fiber is almost strong as hemp, and its strenght is greater when wet.

Strands of commerical sunn are some 150cm (5 ft ) long and consist of many individual fibers held together by natural gums.

Individual cells are about 8.5mm ( 1/3 in)long.The cells of sunn fibers are cylinderical, and are marked here and there by joints. The lumen is not so regular as it is in flax, as it is often filled with a yellow substance. Towards the end of the fiber cell, the lumen disappears. The end of the cell are blunt and rounded.

Seen in the cross section, the cells of sunn fiber are oval. There is a comparatively thick coating of lignin surrounding each cell.

Sunn

Sunn in Use:-

1- Sunn fiber is used for cordage and paper manufacture.

2- It is made into sacking, carpet and rug material.

3- It has a good resistance to moisture and micro-organisms. It become strong in wet condition and made the fiber particularly useful for fishing nets.