Warping:
Warping is a process in which number of the yarns end from the yarn packages or cones are wound on the warping beams.
Or
Warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of the single end package forming a parallel sheet of the yarn wound on to a beam.

Objectives of the warping:
         
The object of warp preparation is to transfer yarn from the spinner's package to a weaver's beam that can be placed behind a loom ready for weaving. A weaver's beam usually contains several thousand ends and for a variety of reasons, it can seldom be made in one operation.
There are two main objective of the warping
Ø Collection of the number of the yarns end required in the fabrics
Ø Winding a specific type of the package as required by subsequent process i.e. warper’s beam or ball etc

Types of the warping:

There are three common types of the warping
Ø High speed warping (Direct warping)
Ø Section warping (Indirect warping)
Ø Ball warping

High Speed Warping:
          In this system single end of the yarn from the cones or packages are directly wounded on the warping beams. This is the winding of total number of warp ends in full width in a single operation from creeled bobbin.
This process or system is used for the mass production. This is used to make smaller intermediate beams called warper’s beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the sizing stage to produce the weaver’s beam. This process is called beaming. Therefore, for if the weaver’s beam contains 10,000 warp ends, then there would be-say – 10 warper’s beams of 1,000 ends each. If this weaver’s were to be made in one stage, the creel would have to have 10,000 yarn packages, which is impossible to manage.

Section of High Speed Warping:
Ø Creel
Ø Warp Break Sensor
Ø Expanding comb
Ø Pressure roller
Ø Beam

Section Warping:
          In the section warping, first the yarn ends from the creel are wounded on the warping section beams which are winding section. After this, this section yarn are then wounded on the warping beams. Then the warping beams without sizing are applied to the loom to produce the grey fabrics. This system takes time so the production will not so good. It is clear from the above it is two step processes.

Feature of Sectional Warping:
Ø This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
Ø Fabrics which don’t required sizing
Ø Fabric with strip of different colors or different type of yarns
Ø Less no of ends of warp in the sheet
Ø The production is less in sectional warping
Ø It is less efficient than high speed warping
Where length of the warp are comparatively small as this is slow speed process and can’t coup up with mass production orders.

Ball Warping:
                   In this system the large no the strands of the yarn of specific length in the form of loose untwist rope are wounded.
This system is mainly used when the yarn is dyed for denim fabrics. This rope consists of the 50 to 100 yarns. Such a beam is termed as ball. After the dying process the rope ends are again separated and wound on another warping beams (long chain beaming). Warp beam so produced are then combined on the sizing machine for applying the size and then wound on a weaver’s beams.

Machine of warping:
         
There are two main parts of the machine of the warping:
Ø Creel   
Ø Head Stock
Creel:
      The creel is a structure which is used to hold the cones on the spindle.
Creel structure:
Spindle:
          Spindle is a part of a machine around which cone turns at the time of withdrawal of yarn or place for supply package.
Pegs:
        This is used to hold the cones on the creel
Guides:
          Guides are a component for controlling the path of a running material.
Tensioners:
     This is device which is use the keep the strength in warp yarn constant.
Stop motion pins.

Creel capacity:
    Creel capacity depend upon the
Ø No the rod of the creel
Ø No the spindles that holds the cones on the creel

Types of the creel:

       There are two type of creel according to the shape:
Ø V-Shape Creels
Ø H-Shape Creels
Ø Mobile Creels
Ø Magazine Creel
Ø Swivel Frame Creel

Differences between Sectional and High Speed Warping

High Speed Warping
Sectional Warping
1. Beam warping is used for long runs of grey fabrics & simple pattern.
1. Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics.
2. The amount of colored yarn is less than 15% of the total.
2. Greater amount of colored yarn is used.
3. High production.
3. Low production.
4. Large amount of yarn required.
4. Small amount of yarn required.
5. Single yarn is used.
5. Twisted yarn is used.
6. Less expensive.
6. More expensive.
7. It is most widely used for cotton, linen, woolen & worsted yarn.
7. It is most widely used for cotton, silk & synthetic yarn.
8. Uniform tension of yarn.
8. Less uniform tension of yarn.
9. Weavers beam is produced after sizing.
9. Weavers beam is produced after warping.
10. Creel capacity is more.
10. Creel capacity is less.
11. Beam warping is more widely used.
11. Sectional warping is not widely used.

Warping and its Types


Warping:
Warping is a process in which number of the yarns end from the yarn packages or cones are wound on the warping beams.
Or
Warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of the single end package forming a parallel sheet of the yarn wound on to a beam.

Objectives of the warping:
         
The object of warp preparation is to transfer yarn from the spinner's package to a weaver's beam that can be placed behind a loom ready for weaving. A weaver's beam usually contains several thousand ends and for a variety of reasons, it can seldom be made in one operation.
There are two main objective of the warping
Ø Collection of the number of the yarns end required in the fabrics
Ø Winding a specific type of the package as required by subsequent process i.e. warper’s beam or ball etc

Types of the warping:

There are three common types of the warping
Ø High speed warping (Direct warping)
Ø Section warping (Indirect warping)
Ø Ball warping

High Speed Warping:
          In this system single end of the yarn from the cones or packages are directly wounded on the warping beams. This is the winding of total number of warp ends in full width in a single operation from creeled bobbin.
This process or system is used for the mass production. This is used to make smaller intermediate beams called warper’s beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the sizing stage to produce the weaver’s beam. This process is called beaming. Therefore, for if the weaver’s beam contains 10,000 warp ends, then there would be-say – 10 warper’s beams of 1,000 ends each. If this weaver’s were to be made in one stage, the creel would have to have 10,000 yarn packages, which is impossible to manage.

Section of High Speed Warping:
Ø Creel
Ø Warp Break Sensor
Ø Expanding comb
Ø Pressure roller
Ø Beam

Section Warping:
          In the section warping, first the yarn ends from the creel are wounded on the warping section beams which are winding section. After this, this section yarn are then wounded on the warping beams. Then the warping beams without sizing are applied to the loom to produce the grey fabrics. This system takes time so the production will not so good. It is clear from the above it is two step processes.

Feature of Sectional Warping:
Ø This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
Ø Fabrics which don’t required sizing
Ø Fabric with strip of different colors or different type of yarns
Ø Less no of ends of warp in the sheet
Ø The production is less in sectional warping
Ø It is less efficient than high speed warping
Where length of the warp are comparatively small as this is slow speed process and can’t coup up with mass production orders.

Ball Warping:
                   In this system the large no the strands of the yarn of specific length in the form of loose untwist rope are wounded.
This system is mainly used when the yarn is dyed for denim fabrics. This rope consists of the 50 to 100 yarns. Such a beam is termed as ball. After the dying process the rope ends are again separated and wound on another warping beams (long chain beaming). Warp beam so produced are then combined on the sizing machine for applying the size and then wound on a weaver’s beams.

Machine of warping:
         
There are two main parts of the machine of the warping:
Ø Creel   
Ø Head Stock
Creel:
      The creel is a structure which is used to hold the cones on the spindle.
Creel structure:
Spindle:
          Spindle is a part of a machine around which cone turns at the time of withdrawal of yarn or place for supply package.
Pegs:
        This is used to hold the cones on the creel
Guides:
          Guides are a component for controlling the path of a running material.
Tensioners:
     This is device which is use the keep the strength in warp yarn constant.
Stop motion pins.

Creel capacity:
    Creel capacity depend upon the
Ø No the rod of the creel
Ø No the spindles that holds the cones on the creel

Types of the creel:

       There are two type of creel according to the shape:
Ø V-Shape Creels
Ø H-Shape Creels
Ø Mobile Creels
Ø Magazine Creel
Ø Swivel Frame Creel

Differences between Sectional and High Speed Warping

High Speed Warping
Sectional Warping
1. Beam warping is used for long runs of grey fabrics & simple pattern.
1. Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics.
2. The amount of colored yarn is less than 15% of the total.
2. Greater amount of colored yarn is used.
3. High production.
3. Low production.
4. Large amount of yarn required.
4. Small amount of yarn required.
5. Single yarn is used.
5. Twisted yarn is used.
6. Less expensive.
6. More expensive.
7. It is most widely used for cotton, linen, woolen & worsted yarn.
7. It is most widely used for cotton, silk & synthetic yarn.
8. Uniform tension of yarn.
8. Less uniform tension of yarn.
9. Weavers beam is produced after sizing.
9. Weavers beam is produced after warping.
10. Creel capacity is more.
10. Creel capacity is less.
11. Beam warping is more widely used.
11. Sectional warping is not widely used.

DYEING AND PRINTING OVERVIEW


DYEING AND PRINTING
Dyeing          Coloration of textile Material in a single solid color
Printing        Coloration of textile material with multi colors to have some specified design with repeat

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING
DYEING•
UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC• USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE. •NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC• AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY •DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-CONTINUOUS METHOD.• FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.• DYEING IN FIBRE,YARN,FABRIC,GARMENTS

            Dye-stuff ( they are the colouring materials )
  • Water
  • Auxiliaries ( they are the helping materials that increase the dyeing properties )

STAGES OF THE DYEING PROCESS
                       Preparation of Fabric
Preparation of the dyeing sol.
Actual dyeing ( padding , drying & fixation )
Soaping & washing
Drying

STEPS
  1. Migration
  2. Adsorption
  3. Absorption
  4. Diffusion
  5. Fixation

DYE STUFF CLASSIFICATION
Dyes can be classified on four parameters but basic are two:
  1. Base on Solubility
  2. Base on Application or Uses
  3. Base on Chemical Constituent
    • Base on ionic structure

Application process
The dyeing of a textile fibre is carried out in a solution, generally aqueous, known as the dye liquor or dyebath. For true dyeing (as opposed to mere staining) to have taken place, the coloration must be relatively permanent; that is, not readily removed by rinsing in water or by normal washing procedures. Moreover, the dyeing must not fade rapidly on exposure to light. The process of attachment of the dye molecule to the fibre is one of absorption; that is, the dye molecules concentrate on the fibre surface.

TYPES OF FORCES ACTING
There are four kinds of forces by which dye molecules are bound to fibre:
  1. ionic forces,
  2. hydrogen bonding,
  3. van der Waals' forces, and
  4. covalent chemical linkages.

DYEING METHODS
  • Exhaust Dyeing
  • Semi-continuous method
  • Continuous metod

DYEING MACHINES FOR BATCH METHOD
Fiber dyeing
  • Loose stock dyeing m/c
Yarn dyeing
  • Spindle package dyeing m/c
  • Hank dyeing m/c
Fabric dyeing
  • Beam dyeing m/c
  • Jigger dyeing m/c
  • Winch dyeing m/c
  • Jet dyeing m/c
  • Soft dyeing m/c
Garment dyeing
  • Peg dyeing m/c
  • Rotary drum dyeing m/c
DYEING MACHINES FOR SEMI-CONTINUOUS METHOD
  • Fabric dyeing
  • Pad –batch pad thermo sol
DYEING MACHINE FOR CONTINUOUS METHOD
Fiber dyeing
  • Continuous fiber dyeing m/c
Yarn dyeing m/c
  • Slasher dyeing m/c
  • Rope dyeing m/c
Fabric dyeing m/c
  • Pad-thermo sol dyeing m/c

TEXTILE PRINTING
Printing is different from dyeing in that way as it is designed to produce multicolored pattern on textile material by using printing paste rather than

METHODS OF PRINTING
The four main methods of textile printing are
  1. block,
  2. roller,
  3. screen, and
  4. heat transfer printing.
In each of these methods, the application of the colour, usually as a thickened paste, is followed by fixation, usually by steaming or heating, and then removal of excess colour by washing. Printing styles are classified as direct, discharge, or resist. In direct printing, coloured pastes are printed directly on the cloth. For discharge printing, the cloth is first dyed with a background colour, which is destroyed by reagents, or reducing agents, carried in a print paste. This action may leave the discharged design white on a coloured background, although print pastes may also contain colouring matters not destroyed by the discharging agent, producing a coloured design. In the resist process, the cloth is first printed with a substance called a resist, protecting these printed areas from accepting colour. When the cloth is dyed or pigment padded only those parts not printed with the resist are dyed. A special application of this technique, imparting plissé effects, is the printing of the fabric with a resist, followed by treatment with caustic soda.



PRINTING PASTE
The printing paste is an emulsion of dye, thickener and hydrocarbon solvent and surface active agents. The uniform consistency of the printing paste is referred to as its viscosity ( the ease with which the paste flows ). The viscosity of the printing paste is very important as it influences the clarity & appearance of the printing pattern.

STAGES IN PRINTING PROCESS
  1. Preparation of the design
  2. Preparation of the printing paste
  3. Actual printing ( making an impression of the paste on the fabric )
  4. Drying of the printing paste
  5. Fixation as after treatments
  6. Soaping & washing
  7. Drying
GENERAL THEORY OF PRINTING
The interaction on steaming b/w the dye , fibre, water, thickener, and hydrocarbon solvent. More specifically, it explains how with in the printing paste:
  • Force of repulsion is developed b/w the dye molecules and constituents of the printing paste; and
  • Force of attraction is developed b/w the dye molecules and the textile material.
THEORY OF PRINTING
  • The printing paste which is applied to the textile material consists of dye, water thickeners & hydrocarbons solvent. After the printing paste is applied, the textile material is usually steamed.
  • Steam enable the dye molecules to migrate from the surface of the fibres and enter the fibres polymer system. Steaming swells the fibres and ensures the better penetration of the dye and improve color fastness properties of the textile material.

METHODS & MACHINES FOR PRINTING
1) Block Printing
Wooden blocks, carved with a design standing out in relief, are made from solid pieces of wood or by bonding closely grained woods with cheaper ones. When designs include large areas, these are recessed and the space
2) Roller Printing

DIFFERENT STYLES OF PRINTING
Direct style: In direct style, dyes are printed directly on the required place of the fabric with the multicolored design.
Discharge style: Fabric is first dyed and then printed with a paste containing a discharging agent thus white or colored effect can be produced on colored ground.
Resist style: First a resisting agent is printed on white fabric and then fabric is dyed.
Special style:1) Transfer printing style,2) Burnout printing style

TEXTILE FINISHING PROCESS
Types of Processes and Objectives:
The term finishing includes all the mechanical and chemical processes employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product, except those procedures directly concerned with colouring. The objective of the various finishing processes is to make fabric from the loom or knitting frame more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include preparatory treatments used before additional treatment, such as bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, such as glazing, to enhance appearance; sizing, affecting touch; and treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Newly formed cloth is generally dirty, harsh, and unattractive, requiring considerable skill for conversion into a desirable product. Before treatment, the unfinished fabrics are referred to as gray goods, or sometimes, in the case of silks, as greige goods.
Finishing is process in which fabric is treated with some mechanical or chemical process before or after dyeing or printing to give the fabric a fancy / novelty touch to make it more durable, flexible soft and good in appearance and handle.
Chemical finishes
  1. Crease resistance/ wrinkle free / resin finish
  2. Soft finish
  3. Water professing
  4. Water repellent/ oil repellent/ soil repellent
  5. Weighting finish
  6. Anti-bacterial finish
  7. Flame proofing
  8. Stiffening finish
  9. Anti static finish
  10. Sanforizing finish

MECHANICLE FINISHES
  1. Heat setting finish ( stentor – pin type or clip type )
  2. Raising finish ( teasel raising m/c & card wire m/c )
  3. Peaching / sueding/ emerizing finish ( emerizing m/c )
  4. Sanforizing finish ( rigmal m/c & confined passage )
  5. Calendaring finish
    • Universal calendar
    • Friction calendar
    • Embossing calendar
    • Schriener calendar
UNDESIRED PROPERTIES
1.      Pilling
2.      Creases ( bad effect but sometimes required as creep )
3.      Stiffness
4.      Water repellency
5.      Shrinkage
6.      Shade variation
7.      Wrinkle
8.      Unclear vision
9.      Weight loss
VALUE ADDED EFFECTS
  1. Lustre
  2. Soft handle
  3. Fire proofing
  4. Water proofing
  5. Fragrance
  6. Crease resistance
  7. Dimension stability
  8. Weighting
  9. Embossing
  10. Anti-bacterial