Faults in gray fabric before wet processing or dyeing

Faults in gray fabric before wet processing or dyeing

Fabric defects are identified during the grey inspection of the fabric after weaving or knitting.

 These defects are classified into three groups

1.      Avoidable and unavoidable

2.      Major and minor

3.      Mendable and unmendable

While most of the defects in the fabric are avoidable some are unavoidable such as certain floats/smashes.

Defect such as weft crack is considered to be a minor if it is within 1-2 cm while the same defect is major when it is more than 2cm.

Certain defects such as isolated snarls (knots of yarn on fabric surface) could be mended (repaired) while the others such as big cracks are unmendable.

BAR

A general terms for a band running across the full width of the cloth due to difference in the appearance from its adjacent sites. It covers

·         Pick bar,

·         Starting Mark,

·         Tension bar or shiner and Weft bar

BOX MARK:

A widthwise line showing stained or injured weft due to the rubbing of shuttle when rebound.

BROKEN PATTERN

This defect may be due to wrong drawing of thread, inserting a pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp thread.

BROKEN PICK

 A pick missing from a portion of the width of the fabric due to rough shuttle-eyes which snag the weft.

CRACKES

A narrow streak running parallel to the weft due to pronounced opening between two adjacent yarns caused due to the erratic operation of the sley.

CUT WEFT

A pinhole in the finished fabric caused by the use of  weak weft  with  a strong warp.

FLOATS STITCHES

A place in the fabric where warp and weft yarns escape the required interlacement due to entanglement of warp threads.

FUZZY

Fibrous appearance of the cloth due to the presence of abraded(rubbed away by friction) yarns.

HANG PICK

 A pick which is out of line for a short distance producing a triangular shaped hole in a fabric.

HARNESS (WARP) SKIP

Warp yarns appearing more or less continuously on the surface of the fabric due to non interlacement of weft yarns.

LASHING IN

Also known as weft trail or jark in weft it is caused by an extra yarn dragged into the cloth along with the regular pick.

LOOSE  WARP  ENDS

Loose warp ends which appear like a reed mark are caused by loose ends which start to feed in just a trifle faster than the rest of the warp.

HANGING THREADS

Ends loose on the face of the fabric because the short and long ends of the fabric are not removed by the weaver.

MISSING ENDS 

The most common defect characterized by a gap of one or more warp threads in a fabric caused due to unmended broken ends, missing ends and high incidence of warp breakages.

REED MARKS

A ready cloth shows irregular spacing between groups of warp yarns across the width of the fabric caused by a damaged or defective reed or too late reed shedding.

SHUTTLE MARKS

Widthwise warp yarns due to abrasion of warp yarns by shuttle.

SLOUGH-OFF

Bulk of weft yarns which slips off the pirn and get entangled into fabric caused due the loose winding of pirn.

STICKER

A distortion in a weave characterized by tight and slack places in the same warp yarn or fabric.

STAINS

Stains such as grease, rust etc occur due to poor material handling.

TEAR DROPS

Appearing in taffeta fabrics as short curved picks caused due to insufficient warp tension, incorrect heald timing, oversized warp and uneven penetration of sizing solution etc.

 TEMPLE MARK

 holes or surface disturbances along the selvage of the fabric. Due to bad or improperly adjusted temples.

UNEVEN CLOTH

Inconsistent diameters of the weft produces a shady cloth where principle of weft mixing is not used.

WRONG DENTING/DRAWING

 The wrong order of drawing ends through healds and reeds respectively also creates fabric defects

Slacked selvedge: Caused due the incorrect balance of cloth structure between the body and the selvedge.